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1

10J - 10天動力儲備

Abbreviation for ? 10 days power reserve ? in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“10 days power reserve - 10天動力儲備”的縮寫。

2

24H - 24小時表盤

Abbreviation for "24-hour dial", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“24-hour dial - 24 小時表盤”的縮寫。

A

Amplitude - 擺幅

Measurement in degrees of the movement of a balance and spring assembly: amplitude is the angle between the position of equilibrium and its maximum elongation.測量擺輪游絲裝置的擺動角度:擺幅即是游絲裝置的平衡位置與最大距角之間的角度。

Analogue - 指針式時間顯示

Refers to time display using hands.指采用指針來顯示時間。

Aperture - 視窗、孔徑

Dial opening revealing the indications provided on discs rotating under the dial.表盤上的開孔,可看見表盤下的轉盤的顯示信息。

Applique - 鑲刻

Raised numeral or hour-marker, applied to or riveted to the dial. At Patek Philippe, appliques are always in gold and are sometimes diamond-set.固定在表盤上的凸起數字或時間刻度。百達翡麗鐘表的鑲刻通常用金打造,有時亦會鑲嵌鉆石。

Appropriage - 拋磨修整

An activity carried out by the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmakers themselves perform certain finishing operations such as polishing steel parts or chamfering bridges.頂級復雜功能(Grand Complications)作坊從事的一項工作。制表師親自進行一些修正操作,如磨光鋼部件和斜切橋板等。

Aquanaut系列

A collection inspired by the Nautilus, created in 1996. It is distinguished by the complexity of its case shape, equipped with a screw-down crown, framing a superbly finished black textured dial. Aquanaut watches are available in three sizes (small, medium and large) and in two versions (gold and steel), on a "Tropical" composite strap or metal bracelet.始創于1996年的腕表系列,靈感來自Nautilus系列。Aquanaut系列表以綜合的表殼形狀、旋入式表冠,精雕細琢的黑色紋理表盤為特色。該系列腕表分為大、中、小三種尺寸,并有金和不銹鋼兩種材質,表帶則有“Tropical”合成帶和金屬鏈。

Arabic - 阿拉伯數字

Usual way of showing the numerals. Arabic numerals: 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.0. As opposed to Roman numerals: I, II,III...顯示數字的常用方式,阿拉伯數字有1、2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、0,分別對應羅馬數字I、II、III……

Arm - 臂桿

Elongated part linking certain parts of a mechanism within a movement (such as the arm of a wheel, for example). 連接機芯某些裝置的狹長部件(如齒輪的臂桿等)。

Art Deco - 裝飾藝術

An artistic movement stemming from the Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris in 1925, which asserts a taste for straight lines and the geometrical interpretation of nature's forms.一項源自1925年巴黎裝飾藝術博覽會(Decorative Arts Exhibition)的藝術運動,主張以直線與幾何形狀表達自然之美。

Attachment - 表耳、凸耳

See ? Horns ?.參見“Horns - 表耳”的解釋。

B

Back - 底蓋

The lower part of the case, fixed beneath the case middle. The case, either in metal or in sapphire crystal to reveal the movement, may be of the screw-down, snap-on, screw-on or hinged dust cover type.

  • Screw-down back : the back and the case middle are respectively fitted with a screw thread and thus screwed to each other.
  • Snap-on back : the back is held on to the case middle by pressure.
  • Screw-on back the back is held on to the case middle by four screws.
  • Hinged dust cover : the sapphire crystal is held on to the case middle by pressure, and the dust cover is hinged to the case middle, enabling one to reveal the movement.
  • On Patek Philippe watches, the back may also be integrated with the case middle. On those kind of models, the watch is equipped with a movement with a "split stem".表殼下半部分,固定在表殼中心下面。 無論底蓋是金屬材質或是可展示機芯的藍寶石水晶,均可采用旋入式、撳扣式螺絲固定或鉸接式防塵表蓋的結合方式。
  • 旋入式底蓋:底蓋和表殼中心通過螺紋接合,因此可以相互旋緊。
  • 撳扣式底蓋:通過壓力將底蓋固定到表殼中心。
  • 螺絲底蓋:通過四個螺釘將底蓋固定到表殼中心。
  • 鉸鏈式防塵蓋:通過壓力將藍寶石水晶底蓋固定到表殼中心,然后將防塵表蓋鉸接到表殼中心,可以打開來觀察機芯。
百達翡麗鐘表的底蓋亦可以與表殼中心融為一起。 這類鐘表的機芯都配有“拼合柄軸”。

Baguette - 方鉆、長矩形寶石

A gemstone cut.一種寶石車工。

Balance roller - 擺輪軸

Disc-shaped escapement component. The balance roller receives the impulses from the pallets via its impulse-pin.盤狀擒縱部件。擺輪滾軸通過沖擊銷來接收擒縱叉的沖擊。

Balance and spring assembly - 擺輪和游絲裝置

The regulating organ of a mechanical movement. The balance and spring assembly, composed of a balance and a balance-spring, oscillates under the impetus of the escapement. In Patek Philippe watches, balance and spring assemblies are generally of the Gynomax type.機械機芯的調校機構。擺輪游絲裝置由擺輪和游絲構成,在擒縱機構的推動下擺動。百達翡麗鐘表的擺輪游絲裝置通常為Gyromax類型。

Balance-cock - 擺輪夾板

Synonymous with a balance-bridge. The balance-cock has a special shape, from which it gets its name, which reveals the balance.同擺輪橋板。擺輪夾板的形狀特殊,由其英文名稱可知,那是與擺輪有關的部分。

Balance-spring - 擺輪游絲、游絲

Small spring coiled into a spiral, an integral part of the balance and spring assembly.卷成盤狀的小彈簧,是擺輪游絲裝置的組成部分。

Ball-bearing mechanism - 滾珠軸承機件

Mechanical device enabling two parts to roll over each other instead of sliding.可使兩個部件互相滾動而非互相滑動的機械裝置。

Barrel - 發條鼓、發條匣

The part of a mechanical movement that enables the accumulation of energy. The barrel is composed of a wheel and drum (cylindrical case) with a cover. It houses the mainspring which coils around the barrel arbor under the impetus of the ratchet wheel.機械機芯的部件之一,可以積累動力。發條鼓由齒輪和鼓形帶蓋的圓筒(條鼓輪)構成。發條鼓內裝著主發條,在大鋼輪的推動力下纏繞在條軸上。

Barrel arbor - 條軸

The stem around which the mainspring coils.主發條纏繞的軸心。

Barrel drum - 條鼓輪

The lateral wall of the barrel, fitted with a hook to receive the mainspring. 發條鼓的側壁,裝有一個彎鉤以固定主發條。

Base plate - 底板

Central plate of the movement, made in brass or nickel silver, on which the movement components are assembled. The upper side of the base plate is the side facing the case back which receives the movement organs. The under side of the base plate is the side facing the dial.機芯的中央板,通常為黃銅或鎳銀制成,機芯組件在此底板上組裝。底板的上面對著表殼底蓋,用于安裝機芯機件,而底板的下面則對著表盤。

Baton - 巴頓式指針

Refers to hour markers or hands featuring the elongated shape of a baton.指條形時間刻度或指針。

Bauhaus - 包豪斯

A German school of architecture and applied arts, renowned for having initiated the artistic movement which holds that function determines form. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 by Walter Gropius in Weimar.德國建筑與應用藝術學院,以發動藝術運動而聞名。他們的觀點是功能決定形式。包豪斯學院于1919年由格羅皮烏斯在德國魏瑪創建。

Benzine - 苯精、輕質汽油

A hydrocarbon with solvent properties.具有溶解特性的碳氫化合物。

Bezel - 表框

Upper part of the case which holds the glass. It is fixed above the case middle.表殼上半部分,用于固定表鏡。安裝在表殼中心之上。

Bienfacture - 優質

A Swiss word with French roots (basically meaning "to make well") which refers to the good quality of a piece of work or an object.來源于法語的瑞士語單詞(大意為“做得很好”),指一件高質量的作品或物品。

Binocular magnifying glass - 雙筒放大鏡

Instrument de grossissement optique qui comporte deux oculaires ou lentilles et permet de regarder avec les deux yeux en même temps.一個有雙目鏡的光學放大鏡,使人可以同時用雙眼觀察。

Blue - 藍油

A protective varnish used to coat all parts of the case and metal bracelet after polishing.保護性清漆,用于涂敷所有磨光后的表殼部件和金屬表鏈。

Bracket - 托架

A kind of support or rest.一種支撐物或支架。

Brass - 黃銅

Alloy of copper and zinc. 銅鋅合金。

Breguet - 寶璣

  • Abraham-Louis Breguet: Swiss watchmaker established in Paris (1747-1823), whose inventions include the tourbillon escapement.
  • Breguet numerals: numerals designed by A.-Louis Breguet, adopted by Patek Philippe on certain dials.
  • Breguet hands: hollowed-tip hands designed by A.-Louis Breguet, adopted by Patek Philippe on certain watch models.
  • 寶璣: 巴黎的瑞士鐘表大師(1747年 - 1823年),他的發明包括陀飛輪擒縱機構。
  • 寶璣式數字:由寶璣設計的數字,百達翡麗在某些表盤上采用這種數字。
  • 寶璣式指針:由寶璣設計的尖端鏤空指針,百達翡麗鐘表在某些型號上采用這種指針。

Bridge - 橋板

Movement part fixed to the base plate, in which the pivot of mobile parts turn. Generally speaking, bridges are named after the mobile parts they carry. Among the easiest to recognise is the balance-cock.固定在底板上的機芯部件,移動部件的樞軸在其中轉動。 一般而言,橋板根據它所承載的移動部件來命名,其中最容易識別的橋板就是擺輪夾板。

Brilliant - 多面型

The most widely used cut for diamonds. It comprises 57 facets, meaning 1 table surrounded with 32 facets for the crown and 24 for the culet.鉆石最常見的車工,共有 57 個琢面,即冠部的一個臺面有32個琢面圍繞,鉆底則有24個琢面。

Burin - 雕刻刀、鏨刀

Engraver's chisel.雕刻師的工具。

Byzantine - 拜占庭風格

Style of chain bracelet, made from gold threads. This type of bracelet is found on the Golden Ellipse 4931/2 watch.由金線制成的表鏈樣式。Golden Ellipse 編號 4931/2腕表就采用這種表鏈。

Beveling——切角

參見“chamfering”倒角。

Blank——半成品

表盤底板雛形。

C

C - 日歷

Abbreviation for “calendar” = simple date = simple calendar in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“calendar - 日歷”的縮寫 = 簡單日期 = 簡單日歷。

Cabled - 纜線式指針

Refers to a hand shaped like a cable.形狀如纜線的指針。

Calatrava - Calatrava系列

An emblematic and quintessentially classic Patek Philippe collection since 1932. The lines of this timeless watch with a round case for men and ladies, are directly inspired by the Bauhaus artistic movement. Featuring a bezel that may be flat, round, gem-set or adorned with a hobnail pattern, the watch itself may be ultra-thin or fitted with a cover protecting the sapphire case back.百達翡麗自1932 年一直沿用的經典系列表。這一經久不衰的男/女手表系列均有圓形表殼,設計靈感直接來自包豪斯藝術運動。表框既可為扁平、圓形、鑲有寶石,也可飾以平頭釘圖案,表型即可為超薄型,又可配有表蓋以保護藍寶石底蓋。

Calendar - 日歷

A complication that provides the various indications of the conventional calendar such as the date, the date, the week, the month and the year. Patek Philippe watches include:

  • Simple calendars: they give the date through an aperture or by means of a hand, indicating the number of the day from 1 to 31 within the month. They must be manually adjusted at the end of 30-day months and at the end of February.
  • Annual calendar: a complete calendar (day, date and month), patented in 1996, which requires a single manual adjustment each year, at the end of February.
  • Perpetual calendars, which take account of monthly variations, including those of leap years, until the year 2100 (the next century year not divisible by 400).
  • The secular perpetual calendar, which takes account of all the variables in our calendar, including that of century years not divisible by 400. This is the most sophisticated calendar in existence. It powers certain pocket watches such as the Calibre 89.
  • 復雜功能之一,提供各種傳統日歷顯示,如日期、星期、月、年等。 百達翡麗表的日歷分為:
  • 簡單日歷: 透過視窗或借助指針顯示每月1 至 31 號的日期數字。在小月(只有30天)和二月結束時,必須手動調節日期。
  • 年歷: 1996年獲得專利的完整日歷(星期、日期和月份)顯示技術,每年只需在二月結束時手動調節一次。
  • 萬年歷:考慮到月份的變化(包括閏年的月份),可顯示至 2100 年(不能被 400 整除的下一個世紀年)。
  • 長久萬年歷:考慮到日歷中的所有變化,包括不能被 400 整除的世紀年份。這是現有最復雜的日歷技術,增大某些懷表(如Calibre 89)的功能。

機芯

Originally synonymous with size or dimensions. Watchmakers then began to use the term to refer to the movement. Patek Philippe has 15 base calibres. They are used either as they are or to serve as a ? base ? for additional developments or functions. There are thus 38 different calibres for wristwatches and 6 for pocket watches in regular production within the Manufacture.原義是大小或尺寸,后來被制表師引申為機芯。百達翡麗有17種基礎機芯,它們既可以作為一般機芯使用,也可以作為“基礎”機芯,在其基礎上增添新技術或新功能。因此,在制造商的常規生產中,腕表有38種機芯,而懷表有6種機芯。

Cannon-pinion - 卡農小齒輪

In a movement, the pinion that controls the motion-work (the gear train that drives the hour, minute and seconds hands).在機芯中控制運動機件(驅動時針、分針和秒針的齒輪系)的小齒輪。

Cam - 凸輪

A disc with a special profile on which a sprung lever rests.輪廓特殊的盤,支撐彈性扳手。

Carat - K(黃金)、克拉(寶石)

A unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, an alloy containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure gold.金制品的黃金純度單位。純金為24K。手表和珠寶工藝品使用18K或750金,即含金量為18/24或75%的合金。寶石的重量單位。1克拉等于0.2克。

Case - 表殼

The watch case is generally composed of three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the case back.表殼通常由三部分構成: 即表殼中心、表框和底蓋。

Case middle - 表殼中心

The middle part of the case, placed between the bezel and the back. It houses the movement.表殼的中心部分,位于表框和底蓋之間。用于容納機芯。

Cathedral - 教堂音簧

See "gong".參見“gong - 音簧”的解釋。

Casing-ring - 表殼襯圈

Ring surrounding the movement and holding it inside the case.環繞機芯并將機芯固定在表殼內的襯圈。

Celestial canopy - 天文圖

Complication that provides a representation of the sky, as it may be observed at night. Also known as sky chart, it enables one to follow the positions of the stars and that of the moon and to visualise the various phases.顯示天相的復雜功能,也稱為天文星圖。人們可以跟蹤星星和月亮的位置,并目測各種月相。

CH - 計時腕表

Abbreviation for ? Chronograph ? in the Patek Philippe typology.百達翡麗表中“ Chronograph - 計時腕表”的縮寫。

Chain bracelet - 鏈條狀表鏈

A bracelet for which the links are produced one by one from a gold wire.通過金線一個接一個連接起來的表鏈。

Chamfering——倒角打磨

又稱切角,法語稱為“anglage”。此工序中,部件表面和側緣之間的鋒利棱邊由手工切割或銼平,形成光滑的45度曲線,然后由機械拋光。切角通常用于增加耐磨度或提升美感。

Champlevé - 雕刻琺瑯、內填琺瑯

Hand engraving technique. Champlevé consists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat graver, thus forming small cavities to receive the enamel.一種手工雕刻工藝。使用扁平的雕刻刀挖空金屬,形成小空腔以填充琺瑯。

Chenier (or knuckle) - 鉸鏈(或關節)

Small tube into which one inserts a pin to form a hinge.小管件,內部可插入銷針,從而形成折葉。

CHR - 追針計時、雙秒針分段計時

Abbreviation of “Split seconds chronograph” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Split seconds chronograph - 追針計時、雙秒針分段計時”的縮寫。

Chronograph - 計時腕表

Watch complication enabling measurement of the duration of an event. A classic chronograph comprises a chronograph or seconds hand circling the dial and another hand adding up the minutes on a counter or totaliser. Some have additional counters. Be careful not to confuse a chronograph with a chronometer!鐘表的復雜功能之一,用于測量某一事件的持續時間。標準的計時腕表由計時或圍繞表盤旋轉的秒針以及另一支指針組成,用以累加計數器或加法器上的分鐘數。有些計時腕表帶有額外的計數器。注意不要將計時腕表與精密計時器混淆。

Chronometer - 精密計時器

A watch featuring high precision certified by an official body. In Switzerland, rating certificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institue).Be careful not to confuse a chronometer with a chronograph!高精度獲得官方機構認證的鐘表。在瑞士,由COSC(瑞士官方天文表測試組織)逐一授予等級證明書。注意不要將計時腕表與精密計時器混淆。

Circular graining——圓形粒紋

因為加工后會獲得類似一排小珍珠的效果,因此該工序在法語中又稱“珍珠紋”(perlage)。這個步驟中,機芯主機板及連接的夾板會被刻上圓圈交錯或珠粒形狀的圖案。打造該圖案時,需將一個涂有金剛砂研磨膏的平頭小木桿裝在拋光機的轉頭上,然后極其輕柔地壓向主機版,產生完美的流線條紋。

Circular satin finish——圓形緞面處理

用于表殼的拋光工藝之一,制造出一種天鵝絨質感的深邃效果。

CITES - CITES公約

Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora. This agreement between nations is intended to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild plants and animals does not threaten the survival of the species to which they belong. Patek Philippe watch straps are made from the leather of farmed animals subject to the CITES.即《瀕危野生動植物種國際貿易公約》。此項國際公約旨在確保國際野生動植物樣本貿易不會對這些野生動植物所屬物種的生存造成威脅。受CITES公約的規限,百達翡麗表的表帶均采用飼養動物的皮革制作。

CL - 天文圖

Abbreviation for ? Celestial canopy ? (or sky chart) in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Celestial canopy (or sky chart) - 天文圖(或天文星圖)”的縮寫。

Cloisonné - 景泰藍

See “Enamel”.參見“Enamel - 琺瑯”的解釋。

Clous de Paris - 巴黎釘紋圖案

See "Hobnail pattern".參見“Hobnail pattern - 平頭釘圖案”的解釋。

CNC - 電腦數值控制

Acronym for Computerised Numerical Control.是“Computerised Numerical Control - 電腦數值控制”的縮寫。

Column-wheel - 導柱輪

Central element of the split seconds chronograph mechanism which gives the various parts (operating-lever hook, hammer, coupling lever and brake) their appropriate positions.追針計時機件的主要元件,使不同部件(操作桿鉤、錘、連動桿和制動器)處于各自適當的位置。

Comet's tail - 彗尾

Refers to a flaw on exterior parts: material slightly hollowed around a tiny burr.指外部組件的瑕疵:小毛邊周圍的輕微凹陷材料。

Corrector - 校正器

Button integrated within the case middle, which is pressed using the setting stylus to adjust certain specific functions.結合在表殼中心的按鈕。使用撥針按該按鈕,可以調節若干特殊功能。

Consecutive - 連續

Relating to a sequence, a well ordered succession (as opposed to simultaneous).與序列有關,按順序的連續性(與“同時”相對)。

COSC - COSC瑞士官方時計測定局

Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute瑞士官方時計測定局(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)的縮寫。

Counter - 計數器

In a classic chronograph, a subdial indicating the time elapsed in minutes. There are also counters for hours or fractions of a second.在經典的計時腕表中,以分鐘表示時間流逝的小表盤。此外,還有表示小時或幾分之一秒的計數器。

Crown - 表冠

A button (which is often fluted), operated between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled into various positions and turned, generally to set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical watches, the crown (or winding crown) also serves to wind the movement. See: Winding crown.通常帶有槽溝的按鈕,用拇指與食指將其拉到不同位置,并向不同方向并旋轉,一般用于設定時間或調校日期。機械表上的表冠(或上弦表冠)還可用于給機芯上弦。參見“上弦表冠” 。

Cut - 車工

Gemstone cut: an essential element in highlighting the stones. The proportions chosen determine three physical phenomena: internal reflection, diffraction or dispersion, and scintillation of fire. Professionals have established a scale for evaluation the quality of cuts. Patek Philippe uses only the best, referred to as "very good" and "excellent".寶石車工:突出寶石光華的重要工藝。所選擇的比例決定三種物理現象——內部反射、衍射或散射以閃爍或光彩。專業人士已設立評估車工質量的等級。百達翡麗只會采用最好的——被評為“優良”和“杰出”的車工。

Cutting the teeth - 切割齒輪

Achieving a shape by cutting out on a Computerised Numerical Control machine or by stamping/pressing.這項操作須采用銑刀完成。銑刀可進行兩項操作:旋轉操作,切割齒輪和小齒輪;以及縱向操作(沿移動部件的中軸方向)。

Circular satin brushing——圓形緞面磨砂拋光

用于表殼的拋光工藝之一,制造出一種天鵝絨質感的深邃效果。

D

Date of Easter - 復活節日期

Complication that displays the date of Easter according to this rule: the first Sunday after the full moon which follows the spring equinox. The patented mechanism is housed within the Calibre 89 watch.根據以下規則顯示復活節日期的復雜功能:春分后滿月之后的第一個星期日。Calibre 89時計內裝有這項專利機件。

Dauphine - 匕首形指針

Refers to hands with an elongated triangular shape.指長三角形指針。

Diamond - 鉆石

Precious stone: pure crystallised carbon, generally colourless, occasionally pink, yellow or blue in colour. A diamond, which is exceptionally hard, scratches all other bodies, but can only be scratched by itself. Patek Philippe uses the highest quality of diamonds, determined by the combination of what are known as the “4 Cs”: Colour, Clarity (purity), Cut (shape) and Carat (weight). On the colour grading scale established by diamond professionals, Top Wesselton internally flawless diamonds corresponds to diamonds rated F (rare white), loupe-clean when enlarged 10 times.一種寶石:純結晶石墨,通常無色,偶爾呈粉紅色、黃色或藍色。鉆石異常堅硬,可以刮傷其它所有物體,但只被其自身刮傷。百達翡麗采用最優質的鉆石,其判定標準即所謂的“4C”體系:顏色、透明度(凈度)、車工(形狀)和克拉(重量)。根據鉆石專家設立的顏色分級標度,Top Wesselton級完美鉆石為F級(極白+)或G級(極白)鉆石,即使放大十倍也看不出任何瑕疵。

Dial - 表盤

Plate with a metal base, visible through a glass, which carries certain indications such as the hours, minutes and seconds. On Patek Philippe watches, dials are generally in brass. The exceptions are those that are gold coloured, sun burst blue and models paved with precious stones, which are made from solid gold plates. Particular care is devoted to their finish. They may be galvanised, embossed, guilloché, painted, metallic, opaline-white, gem-set or genuine enamel.有金屬底座的板、透過表鏡可見的板面,帶有小時、分鐘和秒鐘的時間刻度。百達翡麗的表盤一般以黃銅制成,例外的有金色、放射狀藍色表盤以及鑲有寶石的表盤,全由金制成。表盤的精飾花費大量心思,可能經過電鍍、帶有壓花、帶有交錯格狀飾紋、上過漆、帶金屬色調、呈乳光色、嵌有寶石或是涂上琺瑯等。

Die - 沖模、硬模、模具

Steel plate representing the hollowed reproduction of a part to be cut out or stamped. The material placed on the die takes the shape by being struck with a punch.一種中空的鋼板,用于沖切或沖壓的部件。將材料放入沖模中,用沖壓機壓制成所需的形狀。

Digital - 數字顯示

In watchmaking, refers to display by means of numbers with no hands.就制表業而言,指使用數字而非指針的方式來顯示時間。

Disc - 盤

Flat, thin disc carrying the indications which are successively displayed through an aperture as the disc rotates under the dial.帶有標記的平薄圓片,當盤在表盤下面轉動時,可以通過視窗連續顯示上面的標記。

Display - 顯示(時間)

Stage no.6 in the working of any watch: in either a mechanical watch or a quartz watch, the display is shown by hands or through apertures, driven by a gear train. 鐘表運作的第6階段:無論是機械表還是石英表,是依靠指針顯示還是視窗顯示,均由齒輪系驅動。

Divine proportion - 神圣比例

A mathematical ratio of homogenous size symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes to (1/1.6180). Also known as "the golden section”, it forms the basis of the design of the Golden Ellipse.一個均衡尺寸的精確比例,可以使外觀看起來達到完美的平衡(1/1.6181)。也被稱作“黃金分割率”,它是Golden Ellipse系列設計的基礎。

Drilling - 鉆孔

Penetrating, passing through. For exemple, the drilling of pivot-holes.穿透、穿過。

Drilling for stone setting - 為鑲嵌寶石鉆孔

Preparation for gem-setting by forming the holes that will accommodate the stones. This operation is a machining operation.為寶石鑲嵌預打的小孔,可以容納寶石。這是一道機器加工工序。

Dual time zone - 兩地時區

See “Time zones”. 參見“Time zones - 時區”的解釋。

Décalque——轉印

又稱移印或板印,這種印刷工藝可將二維圖案轉移到任何二維或三維物體上(除此之外較難處理)。在鐘表制造過程中,先將一塊油墨硅膠雕板精心放置于未經處理的表盤上方;降低硅膠板,將字母或數字印在表盤表面,待晾干之后再進行另一次轉印。

E

E - 電子

Abbreviation of “Electronic” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Electronic - 電子”的縮寫。

Easter - 復活節

See "Date of Easter".參見“ Date of Easter - 復活節日期”的解釋。

Electrolysis - 電解、電解作用

Chemical decomposition achieved by the action of an electric current. Certain metals are electrolysed in order to apply them on others in fine layers.通過電流的作用所產生的化學分解。為了能覆蓋在其它金屬薄層上,某些金屬需要進行電解。

Enamel - 琺瑯

Translucent substance that takes on various colours by adding metallic oxides. When fired in the furnace, it adheres to metal and acquires the consistency of glass. It may be applied in a single colour on certain dials. Figurative painting is also used to create decorative motifs. On Patek Philippe watches, these decorative motifs are generally created using two techniques:

  • Miniature enamel painting: the reproduction of paintings in miniature, generally on the cases of pocket watches. Small touches and successive layers are applied to a white enamel base and successively fired in a furnace at 850°C. A layer of transparent enamel is then applied to perfect this work. This finish is called "flux".
  • Cloisonné enamel: this technique, generally used for table clocks, consists of creating cavities marked out by gold wires, in which the enamels are applied in layers and successively fired in a furnace at 850°C.
  • 一種半透明的物質,可加入不同的金屬氧化物而呈現不同的顏色。經過在熔爐中燃燒,可以粘貼在金屬上,具有玻璃的一致性。在某些表盤上可能只使用單一的顏色,具象繪畫還可作為裝飾圖案。在百達翡麗鐘表中,通常采用兩種手法來制作此類裝飾圖案:
  • 搪瓷精繪:制作微型繪畫,一般用于懷表表殼。在白色琺瑯底座上涂上少量多層琺瑯,并用850°C的爐火連續烘烤。然后,涂上一層透明的琺瑯潤色。這種透明的物質稱為“透明琺瑯”。
  • 景泰藍、嵌絲琺瑯:這一工藝通常用于臺式鐘表。用金絲勾勒出凹穴,然后用一層一層的琺瑯填充,并用850°C的爐火連續烘烤。

Energy distribution - 動力發散

  • In a mechanical watch, the energy is distributed progressively by a step-by-step escapement, consisting of pallets and an escape wheel with a special profile.
  • In a quartz watch, the energy is distributed by a stepping motor.
  • 在機械表中,動力由步進式擒縱機構(由擒縱叉和一個形狀特殊的擒縱輪)逐步發散。
  • 在石英表中,動力經步進馬達發散。

Energy production - 動力產生

Stage no. 1 in the working of any watch:

  • In a mechanical watch, this implies manual or automatic winding.
  • In a quartz watch, energy is produced by a battery.
  • 鐘表運作的第1階段:
  • 在機械表中,是用手動或自動上弦。
  • 在石英表中,動力由電池產生。

Embossing - 壓紋、壓花

Stamping a motif in metal with imprints embossed using a press.使用沖壓機的凸出印刻在金屬上沖壓出圖案。

Emerald - 翡翠、純綠柱石;翡翠式切割、長方形

Green coloured gemstone, a variety of beryl. Most widely used gemstone cut for emeralds.綠色寶石,一種綠柱石。切割翡翠的最常用車工。

Emery paper - 砂紙、金剛砂紙

Abrasive mixture coated on paper. Emery paper is used in particular for polishing, smoothing down and creating a circular satin finish.涂在紙上的研磨混合劑。砂紙多用于拋光、打磨和制造旋轉式打圈磨光效果。

Energy transmission and division of time - 動力傳遞及時間分割

Stage no. 3 in the working of any watch: in both mechanical and quartz watches, the energy is transmitted by a gear train which simultaneously divides up time. In the former case, it is powered by the mainspring; and in the second, by a stepping motor. 鐘表運作的第3階段:在機械表和石英表中,齒輪系傳遞動力的同時分割時間。機械表由主發條驅動,而石英表由步進馬達驅動。

Engraving——雕刻工藝

該工序為表殼和表盤刻上精美悅目的形狀和圖案,極具創造力。藝術家先用鉛筆繪出設計草圖,然后用雕刻刀鑿刻細線,或用鏨刀雕刻更粗的深紋,將圖案在金屬表面重現。雕刻師需佩戴雙筒顯微鏡,方可在狹小的表面作業。

EQ - 天文時差

Abbreviation of "Equation of time" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Equation of time - 天文時差”的縮寫。

Equation of time - 天文時差

Complication which indicates the difference between conventional time (mean time) and the time determined by the position of the sun (real time). This difference ranges between - 16 and + 14 minutes, depending on the day of the year.顯示常規時間(平均時間)與太陽位置決定的時間(實際時間)之間差異的一項復雜功能。差異范圍介乎-16至+14分鐘之間,取決于具體某一天。

Equinox - 晝夜平分點、二分點

The date when the duration of the day is equal to that of the night. There are two equinoxes per year which correspond to the start of spring and that of autumn.白晝與黑夜等長的日子。一年有兩個晝夜平分點,分別標志著春季和秋季的開始。

Escapement - 擒縱機構、擒縱機、擺輪、司行輪

The organ of a mechanical movement that enables distribution of energy step by step (and not all at once). The escapement, composed of a wheel with a special shape (curved teeth) and pallets, maintains the oscillations of the regulating organ, the balance and spring assembly.機械機芯的機件,幫助動力逐步發散(而非一次全部發散)。擒縱機構由一個形狀特別(曲齒)的齒輪和擒縱叉組成,用于維持調校機構、擺輪和游絲裝置的振動。

Etoquiaux - 凸邊

Banking of a lever escapement when it is cut out of the plate and is not in the form of pins (solid banking). This term is specific to Geneva watchmaking.由機板上切割出瓦式擒縱器時造成的凸邊,但與插銷不同(實心凸邊)。這是日內瓦制表上的專業用語。

Exterior - 外部組件

Set of external parts of a watch: case, dial, hands, glass, crown, strap/bracelet, etc. (to the exclusion of movement components).鐘表的整套外部組件:表殼、表盤、指針、表鏡、表冠/表鏈等(不包括機芯零件)。

Electroplating——電鍍

參見galvanization”鍍鋅。

Emerizing——金剛砂起絨拋光

用于加工金屬表殼和表鏈的一道工藝,以制造出光滑耀眼的表面,并去除瑕疵。該工序要將零件在砂紙條上劃8字進行打磨,產生柔和的精飾效果。因為會用到磨砂材料與油、水混合而制成的研磨漿,此工序又被稱為研磨。

Enameling——琺瑯工藝

將彩色玻璃或琺瑯顏料研磨成滑石粉狀的粉末,與水或油混合,再將磨好的琺瑯填料準確地涂在備好的金屬表面。待其風干后,涂好琺瑯彩的表面會送入窯爐中以850°C的高溫煅燒,玻璃粉末或琺瑯顏料會熔化,形成全新的堅固表面,并和金屬底座熔為一體。

F

Faceted - 多琢面

Having facets, such as on gemstones.具有多個琢面,比如寶石的多個琢面。

Fancy diamond - 彩色鉆石

Coloured diamond.有顏色的鉆石。

Fine working——精細加工

表殼手工精飾的一部分。這個階段會修整或磨平多余的金屬,焊接表耳,為有防塵蓋的表殼加裝鉸鏈,進行開合調試,并為拋光處理做準備。

Finishing - 最后加工

Refers to the work of a company that buys watch components from outside and only handles assembly, adjustment, fitting the hands and casing up. One must distinguish between a finishing workshop as opposed to a Munufacture.指加工企業的工作,這類企業從外部購買鐘表組件,只是負責進行裝配、調校、安裝指針及裝殼。注意最后加工作坊與制造商的區別。

Finishing operations - 精加工工序

At Patek Philippe, this term encompasses a set of finishing operations performed by hand on watch parts, in keeping with the Geneva tradition. Most of the finishing operations which contribute high value added, are mandatory to obtain the Geneva Seal.在百達翡麗,該詞指遵照日內瓦傳統,在鐘表零件上以手工進行的一套精加工工序。大部份創造高附加價值的精加工工序都是取得“日內瓦優質”印記的必需步驟。

Flux - 透明琺瑯

See "Enamel".參見“琺瑯”的解釋。

Fork - 叉、叉頭、分叉

Tip of the pallets which alternately pushes the impulse-pin placed under the balance and spring assembly so as to maintain its oscillations.擒縱叉的末端,交替推動位于擺輪游絲裝置下面的沖擊銷,以維持振幅。

Fold-over clasp - 折疊扣

A clasp that opens by folding over, without being detached from the two parts of the bracelet.不需與表鏈兩段分離,只要拉開折位便可開啟的扣子。

Frequency - 頻率

Number of oscillations per second. Frequency is expressed in Hertz (Hz). 1 hertz = 1 oscillation = 2 vibrations per second.The frequency of the balance and spring assembly of mechanical watches is no higher than 5 Hertz (5 oscillations/sec.).The frequency of quartz is 32,000 Hertz (32,000 oscillations/second).每秒鐘擺動的次數。頻率以赫茲(Hz)計量。1赫茲 = 每秒1次擺動 = 每秒2次振動。

  • 機械表的擺輪游絲裝置的頻率不高于5赫茲(5次擺動/秒)。
  • 石英頻率為32,000 赫茲(32,000次擺動/秒)。

FUS - 時區

Abbreviation for time zone in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“time zone - 時區”的縮寫。

Faceting——琢面

為表盤上的立體字塊打造一些切面。利用配有鋒利金剛鉆工具的機器來切割棒狀立體時標,令其更清晰易讀。

Fitting——裝配

裝配師組裝機芯零件和組成表殼及表鏈的零件,包括表殼、表圈、表殼底蓋、藍寶石水晶透蓋、接頭和上弦表冠。所有操作要在絕對潔凈的環境下進行。每枚時計均會在這個環節接受從防水到設計的全方位嚴苛品質測試。

G

Galvanised/Galvanic plating - 電鍍

Technique for plating metal by electrolysis. For example, the bridges and plates are protected from oxidation by a fine layer of rhodium.通過電解作用鍍敷金屬的工藝方法。例如,通過電鍍一層薄銠來防止橋板和主機板氧化。

Gearing - 傳動裝置、齒輪裝置、齒輪傳動

Gear train composed of wheels and toothed pinions.由齒輪和小齒輪組成的齒輪系。

Gear-train - 齒輪系、傳動機構

Set of wheels driven in an interdependent movement. The gear-train generally called the going train is the one that transmits energy and divides up time. It comprises the hour wheel, the minute wheel and the seconds wheel.Variable sets of wheel result in reduction and in different speeds of rotation.在機芯內受驅動的一套齒輪,通常被稱為運轉輪系的齒輪系,用于傳送動力和分割時間,由時針輪、分針輪和秒針輪組成。不同的齒輪組和可產生減速和變速的效果。

  • 勻速齒輪系:維持旋轉速度。
  • 加速齒輪系:每個齒輪的轉速較前者為快。
  • 減速齒輪系:每個齒輪的轉速較前者為慢。

Gemmologist - 寶石專家

Specialist of fine stones and precious stones, scientifically called "gems".研究優質石和珍貴石頭(學名稱為“寶石”)的專家。

Gem-setter - 鑲石工匠

Craftsman who sets fine stones or precious stones.鑲嵌優質寶石或珍貴石頭的工匠。

?Gemsetting——寶石鑲嵌

在百達翡麗,鉆石、紅寶石、藍寶石或祖母綠等珍貴寶石歷來以傳統的手工方式鑲嵌,絕不使用粘合劑。通過小心翼翼地折合寶石周圍的金屬,確保鑲嵌絕對穩固。為呈現寶石最耀眼的魅力,鑲嵌方式極為講究(每一排寶石必須保持水平、朝向統一且高度一致)。

Geneva stripes - 日內瓦條紋

Famous wavelike decorative pattern created on the bridges and oscillating weights of Patek Philippe watches. The tool required is crafted from boxwood by the craftsman himself, coated in abrasive paste and then pressed manually in order to remove an extremely small amount of material.百達翡麗鐘表的橋板和擺動錘上的著名波浪形裝飾圖案。所需工具由工匠采用黃楊木親手制作,并涂上研磨膏,然后用手按壓以去除極少量的材料。

Glass - 表鏡

Thin transparent plate through which one reads off the time, and which protects the dial. A glass may also be fitted on the case back to reveal the movement. The glasses used for Patek Philippe watches are always in scratch-resistant sapphire and may thus also be referred to as sapphire crystals.薄而透明的板面,透過它可以讀取時間,同時起到保護表盤的作用。表鏡也可裝在底蓋上以顯露機芯。百達翡麗鐘表采用的表鏡均為防刮藍寶石材質,因此也可稱為藍寶石水晶。

Gold-plating - 鍍金

Coating with a thin film of gold.鍍上一層薄薄的黃金。

Golden Ellipse 系列

Collection characterised by an elliptical case, inspired by the golden section. This "divine proportion" is not a measurement, but a mathematical ratio of homogenous size corresponding to 1/1.6181 and symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes. Golden Ellipse watches were created in 1968 for men, and ladies' versions were subsequently introduced.該系列以其橢圓形表殼著稱,設計的靈感來自黃金分割。這一“神圣比例”并非一種度量,而是一個符合1/1.6180比例的數學比率,象征著完美平衡的形態。Golden Ellipse系列男裝表于1968年問世,隨后推出女裝表。

Gondolo - Gondolo系列

  • Derived from the name of Gondolo & Labourio, the Brazilian company that was a client of Patek Philippe between 1902 and 1930.
  • The collection in tribute to the house of Gondolo & Lanbourio. Launched in 1993, these watches for men and ladies are rectangular, square or cushion shaped. Inspired by the Art Deco movement characterised by perspective and pure lines, they stem from a desire to reproduce shaped watches that Patek Philippe has designed in the past.
  • 該系列名稱源自百達翡麗1902年至1930年間的一位客戶——巴西公司Gondolo & Labourio。
  • 為向Gondolo & Labourio公司致敬,于1993 年推出該系列,男裝表和女裝表均有矩形、方形和墊形等形狀。受以透視法和純線條為特色的裝飾藝術運動影響,該系列的造型和百達翡麗過去的設計如出一轍。

Gong - 音簧

Striking mechanism part:

  • Generally speaking, gongs are circular steel coils, fixed at one end and which progressively surround the minute repeater movement. When struck by hammers, they vibrate and produce sounds.
  • Those that wrap almost twice around the mechanism are called "Cathedral" gongs. This enhances both the quality and duration of their sound.
  • 打鐘機構部件:
  • 一般來講,音簧為圓形鋼線圈,一端固定且漸進環繞三問機芯。當被錘敲擊時,音簧產生振動從而發生聲音。
  • 環繞機械裝置幾乎兩圈的音簧稱為“大教堂”音簧,聲音品質和持續時間均得到提升。

Grande Sonnerie - 大報時

See "Striking mechanism"。參見“Striking mechanism - 報時機構、報時裝置"的解釋。

Graver - 雕刻刀

A pointed tool for engraving.用于雕刻的尖頭工具。

Grinding-wheel - 砂輪

A disc used for polishing, coated with an abrasive substance.用于拋光的盤,外層涂有研磨材料。

Guilloché work——雕飾紋工藝

又稱“機鏤雕刻”。該雕刻工序常用于表殼、表鏈、表盤和表圈,有時還用于裝飾機芯部件,需在車床上完成。百達翡麗的許多車床都是歷史悠久的手工操作機器。該雕刻工序能制造出交錯的精細幾何圖案,需要靈巧的手藝和精準的眼力,而正是手工操作賦予這種圖案獨特的美感。雕飾紋工藝常見于懷表的防塵蓋上,Calatrava系列的巴黎釘紋表圈也帶有雕飾紋,淺淺的條紋交錯出一個個精巧的錐形。

Gyromax - Gyromax專利擺輪

A system of adjusting the balance and spring assembly, patented by Patek Philippe in 1949 and 1951. The Gyromax balance and spring assembly, which equips the company's mechanical movements, replaces the traditional index-assembly or regular-assembly system. The adjustment depends on the direction of the asymmetrical inertia-blocks placed on the balance-ring, enabling one to modiy a watch which is gaining or losing time.用于調校擺輪游絲裝置的系統,百達翡麗于1949年和1951年獲得有關專利。本公司的機械機芯裝有Gyromax專利擺輪游絲裝置,取代了傳統的指針裝置和調校器裝置系統。調校通過安置在擺輪環上的不對稱慣性快的方向進行,可以調校走得快或走得慢的腕表。

Galvanization——電鍍

此工序又稱為鍍鋅,通過為金屬涂上保護涂層以防銹蝕,亦有助于避免材質出現問題(濕氣或海洋性氣候會逐漸腐蝕材質),保證部件更長期完美運行。電鍍工藝借助電化學方法在一種金屬表面鍍上另一層金屬。例如夾板和主機板會鍍銠。此外,電鍍還能用來改變表盤的顏色。

Geneva stripes——日內瓦條紋

又稱為Côtes de Genève,是一種淺刻在機芯部件(主機板、夾板或自動盤)金屬表面的裝飾性寬直條紋。在百達翡麗,工匠會為木質機械工具涂上研磨膏,然后重復向下壓部件表面,并在此過程中慢慢將輪盤推離工作臺,移除表面的少量金屬,創造出均勻而立體的波浪紋。

H

Hair - 絲狀指針

Refers to a hand that looks somewhat like a hair.看起來有些像頭發絲的指針。

Hammer - 錘、音錘

A component in striking watches: Hammers are small levers with a weight at one end which strike gongs to produce sounds.報時鐘表的一個組件:音錘是一端較重的小型杠桿,用于敲擊音簧產生聲音。

Hand - 指針

Metal part which points to various indications on the dial. At Patek Philippe, it may take a variety of shapes and forms, including dauphine, Breguet, leaf, baton, hair, pear, cabled or Louis XV.在表盤上指向不同刻度的金屬部件。百達翡麗的指針形狀和樣式多種多樣,包括匕首式、寶璣式、葉片式、巴頓式、絲狀、梨形、纜線式或路易十五式。

Hardened - 硬化的

Refers to the steel parts used in movements: See "Hardening".指機芯所用的鋼部件:參閱“Hardening - 硬化”。

Hardening - 硬化

Modification of the molecular structure of the steel part in order to make it harder or more flexible. Firing it in the furnace at a temperature of 800°C and then cooling it down quickly in oil at around 40°C make the metal harder, but also more brittle. To stabilise the material, it is reheated to various temperatures and for various lengths of time, depending on the flexibility required for the function the part is to serve.改變鋼部件的分子結構,增加其硬度或柔韌性。將金屬放入溫度為800°C的熔爐內煅燒,然后在溫度約為40°C的油中迅速冷卻,使金屬硬度增加,但同時柔韌性也降低。為穩定材料性能,根據該部件功能所要求的柔韌性,將其重新加熱至不同溫度,加熱時間也各有長短。

Heart - 心形

Gemstone cut.一種寶石車工。

Heart (system) - 歸零裝置(系統)

Steel part enabling the return in one or the other direction of the chronograph hand and/or the split seconds chronograph hand.鋼部件,可使計時指針和/或追針計時指針返回一個或另一個方向。

Hertz - 赫茲

Unit of frequency of a movement.機芯的頻率單位。

HG - HG視窗顯示時間

Abbreviation for "hour shown through an aperture" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“通過視窗顯示時間(hour shown through an aperture)”的縮寫。

Hour marker - 時間刻度

Symbolic character serving to indicate the subdivisions of time, on the dial. The hour markers, whether pointed baton or rounded baton, may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are to be distinguished from numerals, which are characters representing numbers.用于在表盤上顯示時間細分的符號。不論是尖形條狀還是圓形條狀的時間刻度,均可以是扁平的(繪制)或凸起的(鐫刻)。

HS - 跳時

Abbreviation for "Jumping Hour", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Jumping Hour - 跳時(裝置)”的縮寫。

HU - 世界時間

Abbreviation for "World Time", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“World Time - 世界時間”的縮寫。

Hunter pocket watch - 獵表

Pocket watch with a cover, which is distinguished by a winding stem at 3 o'clock and a seconds hand placed along the 12 o'clock – 6 o'clock axis.帶有表蓋、鏈柄軸位于3點位置和一個小秒針位于12點至6點軸線的懷表。

I

Impulse-pin - 沖擊銷

Cylindrical, elongated escapement part, generally made from ruby. The impulse pin receives the impulses given by the pallet-fork. It is fixed to the roller, under the balance-spring for which it serves to maintain the oscillations.圓柱形狹長的擒縱構件,一般用紅寶石制成,接受擒縱叉發出的沖擊。沖擊銷固定在游絲下面的擺輪軸上,起到維持擺動的作用。

Index-assembly - 指針裝置

Traditional system for adjusting the balance and spring assembly. In Patek Philippe movements, apart from calibre 16-250, it is replaced by an exclusive system named Gyromax.用于調節擺輪游絲裝置的傳統裝置。在百達翡麗機芯中,除了Calibre 16-250機芯外,這種指針裝置已由名為Gyromax的專利系統取代。

Inertia-block - 慣性塊

Small asymmetrical metal part which acts by inertia. The Gyromax balance and spring assembly, patented by Patek Philippe, is poised thanks to adjustable inertia-blocks. This equilibrium governs the regularity of rate of the movement, with a minimum gain or loss.通過慣性來運動的小型不對稱金屬部件。百達翡麗已申請專利的Gyromax擺輪游絲裝置可調節慣性快的作用下保持平衡。這一平衡在保證最小誤差的情況下,控制機芯轉速的規律性。

Inertial flywheel - 慣性飛輪、慣性輪

Regulates the speed of rotation in striking watches.調節報時表的轉速。

Integrated circuit - 集成電路

Component of quartz movements which powers the electrical organs, transmits energy to the stepping motor and divides up the frequency of the quartz.為電子元件提供動力、為步進馬達傳送動力以及分割石英頻率的石英機芯元件。

Island - 獨立作坊

Mode of operation of the various Grand Complications workshops at Patek Philippe, which work as self-contained units or production islands. The watchmakers individually finish the movement parts, assemble the calibres, the complications and proceed to "fine working" the watches.在百達翡麗中,指在頂級復雜功能作坊的運作模式,為自成一體的機構或生產作坊。制表師獨自修整機芯部件、裝配機芯、組裝復雜功能及對鐘表進行精加工。

IRM - IRM動力儲備顯示

Abbreviation for power reserve indicator, a complication which displays the time left during which a mechanical movement can continue to run without winding.動力儲備顯示的縮寫。這是一項復雜功能,展示機械機芯在不上弦的情況下尚可運作的時間。

IZR - IZR上弦狀況顯示

IZR是由百達翡麗發明的一種復雜功能。IZR或上弦狀況顯示器可指示自動上弦腕表上弦的最佳時間。注意,不要混淆IZR與IRM!

J

Jewel - 寶石軸承

In a movement, a synthetic ruby that serves to reduce friction on the staffs of the pivots. Jewels belong to the "other parts" category.在機芯中,用于減少樞軸桿摩擦的人造紅寶石。寶石軸承屬于“其它部件”范疇。

Jumper - 制輪爪、棘爪

Steel part that locks certain wheels, known as star wheels, by resting against their teeth. Also known as a jumper spring.通過嚙合齒片來鎖定某些齒輪的一種鋼部件,也稱作定位桿簧。

Jumping hour - 跳時

Hour appearing in an aperture thanks to a rotating disc, and which replaces an Hours hand. It is referred to as "jumping" since, every hour on the hour, it changes by jumping abruptly from one numeral to the next.在旋轉盤的驅動下在視窗中顯示時間,代替以時針顯示時間。之所以稱為“跳”,是因為它在整點時會從一個數字直接跳到另一個數字,以顯示時間的變化。

L

Lathe - 車床

Machine tool used to fashion parts by causing them to rotate. Lathes may be operated by hand or automatically.機械工具。利用車床使部件旋轉,由此塑造部件。車床可以手動操作或自動操作。

Leaf - 齒片、葉片狀指針

Synonymous with pinion tooth.Term used in watchmaking to refer to a hand shaped like a leaf.與小齒輪的齒片同義。制表業的專業術語,指葉片形狀的指針。

Leap year - 閏年

In our calendar, a year when the month of February has 29 days instead of 28. Generally speaking, leap years occur every 4 years. Century years, which are multiples of 100, are an exception: only those divisible by 400 are leap years.在日歷中,指二月有29天而不是28天的年份。一般來說,每四年一閏年。世紀年(是100的倍數)除外。只有能夠整除400的世紀年份才是閏年。

Lépine - 萊芬

  • Jean-Antoine Lépine: French watchmaker (1720-1814) who invented the watch named after him.
  • Lépine watch or calibre: pocket watch without a cover, named after Jean-Antoine Lépine, characterised by a winding-stem at 12 o'clock and a small seconds hand placed along the 12 o'clock – 6 o'clock axis.
  • 萊芬:法國制表師(1720 - 1814年),發明了一種表并以其名字命名。
  • 萊芬懷表:以萊芬名字命名的無蓋懷表,這種懷表的上弦柄軸在12點位置,在12點和6點的軸線上有小秒針。

Lever - 扳手

Pivoting part subject to the action of a spring.受彈簧的活動控制的樞軸部件。

Line-engraving - 線刻

A hand engraving technique. Fine line engraving, made with a burin.一種指針的雕刻技術。 用鏨刀雕刻出的細膩線條。

Louis XV - 路易十五

Refers to a hand with Louis XV style motif.是帶有路易十五風格圖紋的指針。

LU - 月相

Abbreviation for "moon phases" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“moon phase - 月相”的縮寫。

Lugs - 凸耳(表耳)

Parts extending from the case middle between which a spring bar holds the strap or bracelet.從表殼中段伸出的部件,之間有彈簧桿固定表帶或表鏈。

Luminescent - 夜光

Which emits light and is therefore visible at night. The luminescent substance, applied by Patek Philippe on the hands, numerals or hour markers, is non radioactive.夜晚發光,可以讀取時間。百達翡麗鐘表的指針、數字或時間刻度所采用的夜光物質無輻射。

M

Machining - 機器加工、機械加工、切削加工

Synonymous with cutting out. Working or fashioning raw material. Forming holes and recesses, milling, turning, drilling and threading are all machining operations. At Patek Philippe, the watch parts are machined on computerised numerical control machines.與“cutting out - 切削”同義。加工或塑造原材料。制造小孔或凹座、銑削、旋轉、鉆孔及車螺紋均屬于機械操作。在百達翡麗,鐘表部件均由電腦數值數控設備進行加工。

Mainspring - 主發條

Motor spring of a mechanical movement. As it coils inside the barrel, it accumulates energy. As it uncoils, it transmits the energy to the hands via a gear-train. In Patek Philippe watches, the mainspring is fitted with a slipping spring when the movement is self-winding.機械機芯的動力彈簧。當主發條盤繞在發條鼓中時,可以儲存動力。當它展開時,可通過齒輪系向指針傳輸能量。在百達翡麗鐘表中,若機芯是自動上弦的,主發條與滑動發條安裝在一起。

Manually wound - 手動上弦

A manually wound movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by hand (using the winding crown).手動上弦機芯是指用手上弦(使用上弦表冠)的機械機芯。

Manufacture - 制造商

Refers to a company that makes a watch in its entirety: conception, development, production, assembly and adjustment. One speaks of a Manufacture as opposed to a finishing workshop.指包辦制表各項工序的公司:從構思、開發、生產、組裝到調校全過程。所謂制造商是相對于加工作坊而言。

Marquise - 欖尖形、馬眼形

Elongated gemstone cut, synonymous with navette cut.修長型寶石車工,與“水雷形車工”同義。

Mechanically bracelet - 機制表鏈

A bracelet with metal links produced on CNC machinery.用電腦數值控制機器設備生產的具有金屬鏈接的表鏈。

Mechanism - 機械裝置、機件

Combination of parts which, together, operate a function. A watch movement comprises several mechanisms.共同執行一項功能的部件結合體。鐘表機芯包括幾種機械裝置。

Micro-scratch - 微小刮痕

Refers to a flawed appearance on watch exterior parts: a tiny, almost invisible scratch.指鐘表外部組件的瑕疵:幾乎看不見的微小刮痕。

銑削

一種切割工序,用于在物體表面進行切割、拋光并精加工出微小的凹陷,形成用于嵌入寶石或時標的孔洞。操作時需要使用高速車銑機床,是一項十分精細復雜的工藝。

Miniature enamel painting - 搪瓷精繪

See "Enamel".參見“Enamel - 琺瑯”的解釋。

Minute repeater - 三問

See "Striking mechanism".參見“Striking mechanism - 報時機構報時裝置”的解釋。

Minute track - 分鐘刻度

The minute track is the mode of displaying the minutes (railway track).分鐘刻度是顯示分鐘的一種模式(鐵道分鐘刻度)。

Mirror - 鏡面

Describes the particularly soft and luminous result of polishing. Mirror polish is also called black or specular polish.描述格外柔和明亮的拋光效果。鏡面拋光也稱暗光或反射拋光。

Moon phases - 月相

A complication which depicts the evolution of the moon, as seen from the earth. The indication is generally shown in an aperture, but may sometimes by displayed by a hand.一項描述從地球上觀察月亮演變的復雜功能。這種變化一般通過視窗顯示,但有時也用指針顯示。

Motion-work - 運動傳動機構、運動機件

In a movement, the motion-work is the gear train which drives the hour, minute and seconds hands.運動機件是指機芯中驅動時針、分針和秒針運轉的齒輪系。

Movement - 機芯

There are three types of movements, or calibres, which drive Patek Philippe watches:

  • Mechanical manually wound movements
  • Mechanical self-winding movements.
  • Quartz movements which, in Patek Philippe watches, comprise 10% electronic components and 90% mechanical components.
驅動百達翡麗鐘表的機芯或口徑有三種類型:
  • 機械手動上弦機芯
  • 機械自動上弦機芯
  • 百達翡麗鐘表的石英機芯包括10%的電子元件以及90%的機械元件。
  • Movement regulation - 機芯調校

    Stage no. 5 in the working of any watch:

    • In a mechanical watch, the regularity of the running of the movement is ensured by the oscillations of the balance and spring assembly.
    • In a quartz watch, the regularity of the running of the movement is ensured by the oscillations of the quartz.
    • 鐘表運作的第5階段:
    • 在機械表中,擺輪游絲裝置的擺動保證機芯運轉的規律性。
    • 在石英表中,石英的擺動保證機芯運轉的規律性。

    Mirror polishing——鏡面拋光

    又稱“黑色拋光”,被視為所有拋光工藝中要求最高的一種,真正的鏡面拋光歷來依靠手工完成,且只用于最超卓的時計。將部件在經過超細鉆石涂層處理的鋅盤上打圈摩擦,完成之后,表面呈單向反光,或反射全部光線,熠熠如銀鏡;或著吸收所有光線,呈深不見底的烏黑。

    N

    Nautilus - Nautilus系列

    A collection, for men and ladies, created in 1976. Nautilus watches are characterised by the shape of their monobloc case: an octagonal ship's porthole secured by four lateral screws to ensure that it is perfectly sealed and water-resistant. Each of its eight sides is subtly curved to trace a perfect arc of a circle, forming the contours of a great classic.1976 年創作男裝表和女裝表系列。Nautilus系列以連體表殼的獨特形狀而著稱:四側面螺絲牢牢固定的一個狀似八邊形船舷窗的表殼,確保表殼完美密封性與防水性。其八個側面均精巧地彎成一個圓滑的弧形,創造出經典的手表輪廓。

    Navette - 水雷形

    Elongated gemstone cut, synonymous with the marquise cut.修長型的寶石車工,與“欖尖形/馬眼形”車工同義。

    Nickel silver - 鎳銀、白銅銀、銅鎳鋅合金

    Copper, zinc and nickel alloy, oxidises less easily than brass.銅、鋅和鎳的合金,比黃銅更難氧化。

    NIHS 92-10 - NIHS 92-10

    Water resistance norm equivalent to the international ISO-2291 norm. All Patek Philippe watches are tested to around 20% more than the guaranteed value. For example, a watch that is water-resistant to a depth of 25 metres has been tested at a pressure of 3 bars, meaning 30 metres (1 bar = 10 metres).相當于國際ISO-2291標準的防水標準。所有百達翡麗腕表均經檢測,以超越保證品質標準的20%以上。例如,25米深度防水的腕表經檢測可承受3巴(即30米,1巴=1米)的壓力。

    Numeral - 數字

    Character representing a number used to indicate the units of time on the dial. The Arabic, Roman or Breguet style numerals may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are different from symbolic characters such as hour markers.用于表示表盤上單位時間的數字符號。這些阿拉伯、羅馬或寶璣式數字可以是扁平的(繪制)或者是凸起的(鑲嵌)。它們有別于象征性的符號,如時間刻度等。

    O

    Onyx - 縞瑪瑙

    Fine gemstone, a variety of agate featuring regular concentric zones of various colours. The crowns of Twenty~4 steel watches are set with an onyx.精美寶石,一種帶有多色規則同心環帶的瑪瑙。Twenty~4®鋼質腕表的表冠上就鑲嵌著一顆縞瑪瑙。

    Opaline-white - 乳白玻璃、乳光、乳白色

    A solid white finish with a silky rendreing. It is achieved by spraying a silvery coating of powder before applying a transparent layer.使光滑的打底不帶有經緯線的加工方式,做法是在涂上透明護層之前,涂上噴有粉末的銀色涂層。

    Oscillation - 擺動、振動

    In a mechanical watch, the movement of the balance and spring assembly in both directions, to and fro. In a quartz watch, the double vibration of the quartz. One oscillation comprises two vibrations.在機械表中,指擺輪游絲裝置在兩個方向的運動。在石英表中,則指石英的雙振動。一次擺動包括兩次振動。

    Oscillating weight - 自動盤、擺輪錘、擺動錘

    See "Rotor".參見“自動盤”的解釋。

    Other parts - 其他部件

    Patek Philippe refers to a certain number of movement parts, apart from the plates, bridges, wheel trains and steel parts, as "other parts".百達翡麗鐘表的"其它部件”是指除主機板、板橋、齒輪系及鋼部件以外的其它機芯部件。

    Oval - 橢圓形、卵形

    Gemstone cut.一種寶石的車工。

    P

    Palladium - 鈀

    Extremely hard white metal. In Patek Philippe watches, it is used instead of nickel in the composition of white gold.異常堅硬的白色金屬。在百達翡麗鐘表中,它取代鎳用于合成人工白金。

    Pallets - 擒縱叉

    A steel or brass part within a mechanical watch shaped like a ship's anchor. It makes up the escapement together with a special-shaped wheel with curved teeth, called the pallet wheel".在機械表中,形似船錨的鋼或黃銅部件,它與擒縱叉輪(具有曲齒的特殊形狀齒輪)組成擒縱機構。

    Patek - 百達

    Antoine Norbert de Patek (1812-1877). A Pole who settled in Geneva in 1835. He took an interest in highly valuable pocket watches and acquired a significant clientele. In 1839, he founded Patek, Czapek & Cie. He then met watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippe in 1844 and suggested that they become associates. He then changed the name of the Manufacture in 1845 to become Patek & Cie. It only became Patek Philippe & Cie in 1851.安東·羅伯·百達(1812-1877年),波蘭人,1835 年定居日內瓦。他對珍貴稀有的懷表情有獨鐘,并獲得一群顯赫的客戶。1839年,他創建了Patek, Czapek & Cie公司。1844 年,他知遇制表師吉恩·亞男·翡麗(Jean-Adrien Philippe),后者建議建立合作關系。1845年,他將公司名改為Patek & Cie,1851年又更名為百達翡麗(Patek Philippe & Cie)。

    Pear - 梨形

    • Hand shape
    • Gemstone cut, shaped like the fruit with the same name.
    • 指針的形狀
    • 一種寶石的車工,形狀象同名的水果——梨。

    Petite Sonnerie - 小報時

    See "Striking mechanism".參見“Striking mechanism - 報時機構、報時裝置”的解釋。

    Philippe - 翡麗

    Jean-Adrien Philippe (1815-1894). A French watchmaker who invented the keyless winding and time setting system in 1842. He met Antoine Norbert de Patek in 1844 in Paris, during an exhibition of his invention. He joined Patek in Geneva the following year. Founded on May 15th 1845, the Patek & Cie company became Patek Philippe & Cie in 1851.吉恩·亞男·翡麗(1815-1894年),一名法國制表師,1842 年發明免鑰匙上弦及時間設定系統。1844年,翡麗在巴黎舉辦個人發明展覽會,期間與安東·羅伯·百達不期而遇,并于次年加入日內瓦百達公司。Patek & Cie創立于1845年5月15日,并于1851年更名為百達翡麗(Patek Philippe & Cie)。

    Piezo-electric - 壓電

    A property of certain crystals such as quartz. The piezo-electricity of quartz means that it is deformed and vibrates under the effect of a low-intensity electric current. Its vibrations are remarkably constant.某些晶體的特性,如石英,石英的壓電效應是指它在低強度電流的作用下會變形和產生極其穩定的振動。

    Pinion - 小齒輪

    A toothed movement part which, combined with a wheel top, forms a wheel. On Patek Philippe watches, the pinions are in hardened steel. Their teeth are polished by hand on a wooden grinding-wheel coated with abrasive paste. The end of the pinion is polished on a leather grinding-wheel.帶齒的機芯部件,與輪板共同構成齒輪。百達翡麗鐘表的小齒輪由硬化鋼制成。小齒輪的齒用途有研磨膏的木砂輪進行手工拋光,小齒輪的末端則在皮砂輪上拋光。

    Pin (on a movement) - 插銷、銷釘(位于機芯上)

    Small cylindrical pegs driven in, used for fixing, guiding or stopping.可推進的小圓柱栓釘,用于固定、引導或堵塞。

    Pin (on a buckle) - 扣針(位于表帶扣上)

    A pointed metal prong which goes through various holes in the leather, on traditional straps.傳統表帶上穿過各個扣眼的尖頭金屬插腳。

    Pin buckle - 針扣

    Fastens the strap. A metal buckle composed of a ring or rectangle and a prong called a pin.用于扣緊表帶。金屬扣環由環形或矩形與稱為扣針的插腳組成。

    Pipe - 管件

    Hollow metal cylindrical part used for many purposes (pivoting, supporting arbors, protecting parts, etc.) Pipes belong to the category of "other parts".空心金屬圓柱形部件,用于多種用途(繞軸旋轉、支撐軸心、保護部件等)。管件屬于“其它部件”范疇。

    Pivot - 樞軸

    Movement component which rotates in a fixed support.在固定支點旋轉的機芯組件。

    Pivot shank - 樞軸桿

    Small stem or rod.細小的轉柄或支桿。

    Plating - 鍍敷

    Method of depositing or transferring metal on the dial, for a specific surface rendering.在表盤上熔敷或傳導金屬的方法,專用于表面打底。

    Point - 疵點

    May refer to a flaw on watch exterior parts: a small burr.可指鐘表外部組件上的瑕疵——小毛邊。

    Polishing——拋光

    拋光工藝是最重要的精飾技術之一,它能凸顯時計的形態,強調不同部分的特色,并在視覺上融合寶石鑲嵌、琺瑯工藝乃至雕刻的效果。在百達翡麗,這種被稱為“自由浮動”的工藝歷來依靠手工完成,它在操作時不能施加壓力。精通這項高難度工藝需要豐富的經驗、熟練的手藝和敏捷的反應。工藝師會采用尺寸及材質不一的打磨滾輪,所用材質各異,包括織物、毛氈或動物皮毛(天然或合成物)。拋光能完美修繕難以察覺的瑕疵。

    Polisher - 拋光機

    Tool or machine used to polish or to create certain decorative motifs such as circular-graining.用于拋光或制作特定裝飾圖案(如旋轉式打圈圖案)的工具或機器。

    Pounced ornament - 雕飾

    See "Relief".參見“Relief - 浮雕”的解釋。

    Power reserve - 動力儲備

    A complication that indicates the state of the power reserve: the time during which a mechanical movement can continue running without being wound, ranging from 48 hours to 10 days for Patek Philippe watches.一種顯示動力儲備狀態的復雜功能:在此期間,百達翡麗鐘表的機械機芯無須重新上弦可持續運轉48小時至10天不等。

    Pre-assembly, Pre-assemble - 預裝配

    Pre-assembling bridges means driving the jewels into the sunk holes.預裝配橋板指將寶石軸承嵌入凹孔內。

    Press - 壓力機、沖壓機

    • A mechanism or device that exercises pressure on a solid object.
    • The combination of a punch and die used in the pressing process.
    • 給固體物質施加壓力的機構或裝置。
    • 加壓過程中所使用的沖頭和沖模的組合。

    Pressing - 沖壓、擠壓、壓制

    Synonymous with cutting out with a "cutter". Striking the material with a punch on a die to cut out a shape.

    • In making watch exteriors, pressing means not only cutting out but also shaping, correcting or finishing. After cutting out the rough shape of the part, the metal is distorted by pressing successively to obtain the desired shape. Patek Philippe is one of the last watch Manufactures to press its own cases. The Manufacture makes its own press tools.
    • 與用“刀具”切削同義,即用沖模上的沖頭沖擊沖模中的材料以切出外形。
    • 在制作鐘表的外部組件時,沖壓不僅指切削,還指成形、校正或精飾。切削部件的毛胚后,通過不斷擠壓使金屬變形,變成所需的形狀。百達翡麗是最后一批自行壓制表殼的鐘表制造商之一,而且自行制作沖壓工具。

    Princess - 公主式

    Gemstone cut, with a square base.一種寶石的車工,底座呈正方形。

    Profile-turning - 仿形

    Cutting parts, particularly pinions, from rotating cylindrical metal bars, using dedicated tools.使用專用工具使部件(尤其是小齒輪)與旋轉的圓柱形金屬條板分離。

    Protective coating - 保護涂層

    Red varnish placed in the hollows of gilded numbers and logos in order to protect them from subsequent surface treatments.覆蓋在鍍金數字和標識凹孔內的紅色清漆,可在隨后的表面處理中提供保護。

    PS - 小秒針

    Abbreviation for "small seconds" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“small seconds - 小秒針”的縮寫。

    Punch - 沖頭

    Sharp-edged tool which stamps the material placed on a die, during the cutting out or pressing process.在切削或沖壓過程中對放置在沖模上的材料進行沖壓的鋒利工具。

    Push-button - 按鈕

    A button pressed with the finger to activate certain functions, such as those of a chronograph.用手指按的按鈕,用于啟動若干功能,如計時腕表的功能。

    Pocket watch - 懷表

    Watch intended to be carried in the pocket of a waistcoat. Patek Philippe produces Lépine or hunter pocket watches, which are exclusively mechanical.一種放在馬甲口袋內以隨身攜帶的手表。百達翡麗出產純機械類的萊芬懷表或獵表。

    鉑金(材料)

    貴重金屬。制作鐘表時,我們采用950鉑金(即95%的純鉑金和5%的其它金屬)。這是最難以加工的金屬材料,在它面前折戟的工具數不勝數。其加工時間比金長三到四倍。

    Pointage——壓嵌

    又稱鉚接。此工序用鉆石磨砂輪或尖角(點鉆)將時標準確固定在表盤結構上。一旦數字被放入表盤上的導孔內,用磨砂輪或鉆子壓平數字背面的“腳”,將其牢牢固定。

    Polishing the pinion ends——末端拋光

    為時計傳動裝置提供動力的小齒輪對時計機芯而言至關重要,它由一個齒輪軸和附近稱為“齒瓣”的長形輪齒組成。軸端面積極小,但若將小齒輪放入齒輪盤,僅露出軸尖,便可進行加工。利用皮革磨砂輪進行拋光,直到樞軸末端光滑和外凸程度令人滿意。

    Polishing the faces of the pinion leaves——齒瓣表面拋光

    這是一道清潔小齒輪齒瓣內部平面的工序。由于需要拋光的精鋼表面非常小,需把小齒輪擰到一個臨時齒輪上以進行支撐,防止受損。拋光需使用涂有研磨膏的硬質金屬磨砂輪。拋光后會使齒瓣散發耀眼光澤,并提升抗氧化的能力。

    Polishing the pinion teeth——輪齒拋光

    將極小的齒輪放在一個承托座上,調低涂有研磨膏的木制砂輪,令其接觸齒瓣,讓小齒輪旋轉,以此將其打磨至銀光閃亮。這道工序能減少鋼制齒輪組的摩擦,并延長傳動系統的壽命。

    Q

    Q - 萬年歷

    Abbreviation for "Perpetual Calendar" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Perpetual Calendar - 萬年歷”的縮寫。

    QA - 年歷

    Abbreviation for "annual calendar" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“annual calendar - 年歷”的縮寫。

    QR - 帶有自動回位日期指針的萬年歷

    Abbreviation for "Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand - 帶有自動回位日期指針的萬年歷”的縮寫。

    Quartz - 石英

    • In its natural state, quartz is a rock crystal.
    • For watch movements, the quartz is manufactured synthetically. It is used for its piezo-electric properties.
    • 自然狀態的石英是一種無色水晶。
    • 鐘表機芯內的石英是人工合成的,因具有壓電性能而被采用。

    R

    R - 三問

    Abbreviation for "Minute repeater", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Minute repeater - 三問”的縮寫。

    Rack - 齒條

    Steel part with straight toothing used in triggering the minute-repeater mechanism.啟動三問報時機構時所用的帶有直齒的鋼質部件。

    Railway track minute circle - 鐵道分鐘刻度

    Peripheral indication of the minutes on the dial reminiscent of the rails on a railway track.表盤上表示分鐘的圓周標記,形似鐵路的軌道。

    Ratchet wheel - 大鋼輪

    A toothed wheel fixed by a square hole to the barrel arbor. It is placed between the crown wheel and the barrel arbor.通過方形空洞固定在條軸上的齒輪,置于表冠輪與條軸之間。

    REC - 長方形

    Abbreviation for the "Rectangular shape" of calibres in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Rectangular shape - 長方形”的縮寫。

    Recess - 凹槽

    Hollow cut in bridges and plates to receive various components.于橋板與主機板之間的凹處,用于安裝各機件。

    Relief - 浮雕

    Hand engraving technique, also called pounced ornament. Relief is a "trompe l'oeil" or optical illusion type of modelling in the manner of bas-relief, created using a graver.手工雕刻技術,也稱為雕飾。浮雕是用雕刻刀以仿淺浮雕風格雕琢出來的“欺人擬真畫”或錯視畫類型。

    Repassage, Repasser - 整合

    Activity of the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmaker assembles, adjusts, files and balances movement parts. He adapts the parts to each other so that they run perfectly.頂級復雜功能作坊的工作。制表師裝配、調整、琢磨及平衡機芯部件,使各部件相互配合,保證運轉順暢。

    Restoration or repair, rhabillage - 修復或修理

    Repairing, restoring a watch to good working order. Refers to service or repair departments (ICS).修理、修復手表,使恢復到正常運作狀態。參見服務及修理部門(ICS)。

    Retrograde hand - 自動回位指針

    A hand with a tip moving over the arc of a circle instead of a circle. When it reaches the end of its path, it returns instantly to its point of departure. Retrograde hands may give various indications such as hours, minutes. Patek Philippe has several watch models with a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand.末端沿圓弧而非圓周移動的指針。當其到達路徑末端時,會立即返回至起點。自動回位指針可提供小時、分鐘等多種指示。百達翡麗的若干帶有萬年歷的鐘表型號,里面均帶有自動回位日期指針。

    Rhodium - 銠

    Metal often used to give a beautiful silvery colour to white gold (for watch exteriors) or for certain movement parts, especially bridges and plates. On the brass or the nickel silver of the latter, it also serves to protect against oxidisation.一種金屬,常用于為鐘表外部組件或某些機芯部件(特別是橋板和主機板)所用的白金增添美觀的銀色。對于黃銅或鎳銀制品,銠還可防止氧化。

    Rhodium plating - 鍍銠

    Coating with a fine layer of rhodium by electrolysis.通過電解鍍上精密的銠層。

    River - 凈水色

    Term used to describe D-colour (exceptional white +) or E-colour (exceptional white) diamonds.用于形容顏色為D級(超白 +)或E級(超白)的鉆石。

    Roman - 羅馬數字

    System writing figures as letters: Roman numerals: I (1). V (5). X (10. L (50). C (100. D (500). M (1000).以字母表示數字的體系——羅馬數字,即I(1)、V(5)、X(10)、L(50)、C(100)、D(500)、M(1000)。

    Rotor - 自動盤

    Component of self-winding movements, synonymous with oscillating weight. The rotor is a heavy part which rotates or oscillates thanks to wrist movements and automatically winds the mainspring. Nonetheless, when the watch is not worn for a certain period of time, one resorts to manual winding to reactivate the accumulation of energy in the barrel. Patek Philippe rotors, which are mounted on ball-bearing mechanisms, are always in 18 or 22-carat gold. When they are particularly small in size, they are called mini-rotors.自動上弦機芯的組件,與擺動錘同義。自動盤為重型部件,隨手腕的擺動而轉動或擺動并自動給主發條上弦。不過,若腕表在一段時期內不被佩戴,需要先以手動上弦,以重新激發發條匣內的動力積累。百達翡麗的自動盤固定在滾珠軸承機構上,一般用18或22K黃金制造。若它們的尺寸特別小,就稱為微型自動盤。

    Rounding off - 修正

    On a rounding-off cutter, the watchmaker operates a milling-cutter to correct the teeth and the diameter. This operation is performed exclusively when restoring antique watches, or when the watchmaker is working on the basis of a movement blank.在修正切割機上,制表師運用銑刀調整齒片和直徑。這項操作只有在修復古董表時,或制表師在機芯半成品上操作時才會進行。

    Round-polished - 圓角拋光

    Referred to in French as "bassiné", in reference to "bassine" type cases with rounded profile that are smooth all around. For example, certain hour markers are referred to as round-polished markers.法語稱為“bassiné”,與圓形輪廓且周邊平滑的“bassiné”風格表殼有關。例如,某些時間刻度稱為圓角拋光標記。

    Running equation - 運轉時差

    Complication that consists of indicating solar time (real time) thanks to a second Minutes hand.用另外一支分針指示太陽時(實際時間)的復雜功能。

    S

    S - 中置秒針

    Abbreviation for "centre sweep second hand" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“centre sweep second hand - 中置秒針”的縮寫。

    Sapphire - 藍寶石

    • Transparent synthetic material for watch glasses (or crystals) which has the property of being scratch-resistant.
    • Gemstone, a variety of corundum. It is generally blue, but may be pink, yellow, etc.
    • 用于表鏡(或水晶表鏡)的透明合成材料,具有抗刮傷的特性。
    • 一種寶石,剛玉的一種。一般為藍色,也可以為粉紅色、黃色等。

    Satin-brushed - 緞光刷面

    Describes a shiny surface toned down by a slightly frosted effect.指以輕微的磨砂效果稍加緩和的光亮表面。

    Scratch - 刮痕

    Refers to a flaw on watch exterior parts: small line, shallow furrow.指鐘表外部組件上的瑕疵:細線,淺溝。

    Self-winding - 自動上弦

    A self-winding movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by wrist movements thanks to the oscillating weight (or rotor).自動上弦機芯屬于機械機芯,由擺輪錘(或自動盤)隨手腕的擺動而進行上弦。

    Setting stylus - 撥針

    A stylus with a metal tip used to push the correctors. Setting styluses are made by Patek Philippe and delivered with all watches requiring them.用于推動校正器的帶有金屬尖頭的針頭。撥針由百達翡麗制作,并隨需要撥針的鐘表一起附送。

    Shock-absorber - 避震器

    Device facilitating the mobility of jewels so as to absorb shocks.促進寶石軸承機動性的裝置、用于減震。

    SID - 恒星時間

    Abbreviation for "sidereal time" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“sidereal time - 恒星時間”的縮寫。

    Sidereal time - 恒星時間

    A complication that displays sidereal time. It is based on the earth's rotation in relation to a fixed point, such as a star. It is invariable for a given point and shorter than the average time of 3 min. 56 sec. per day (23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds /24 hours).顯示恒星時間的復雜功能。以地球圍繞固定點(如恒星)的旋轉為依據。就某一特定點而言是恒定不變的,比平均時間每天短3 分 56 秒(23小時56分4秒/24小時)。

    Sinking - 挖槽

    Sinking a recess or concave chamfer (slightly hollowed cut edge). 形成凹槽或凹面倒角(輕微凹陷的切邊)。

    Slide piece - 打簧滑動件

    On a striking or minute repeater watch, the part that slides along the case middle to activate the striking mechanism or switches it to silent mode.報時表或三問表中沿表殼中心滑動的部件,用于啟動報時機構或轉換為靜音模式。

    Slipping spring - 滑動發條

    A potential characteristic of the mainspring. When the watch is worn, it is automatically wound constantly and when coiled to the maximum, excess tension might break the mainspring. The outermost tip of the spring is thus not entirely fixed. It is equipped with a slipping spring, a blade that slides intermittently against the inside wall of the drum equipped with three notches, if the tension becomes excessive.主發條的一種潛在特性。佩戴中的腕表會不斷自動上弦,當卷繞至最大限度時,過度的張力可能會損壞主發條。因此發條的最外端不會被完全固定。并配備有滑動發條,在張力過大時,滑動發條會間歇性地向帶有三個凹槽的鼓筒內壁滑動。

    Small seconds hand - 小秒針

    Seconds indicated on a small subdial, and not in the centre.小副表盤上的秒鐘,不在中心位置。

    Smoothing down——磨飾

    常用于機芯部件的一道工序。使用工作臺上形如大瓶塞的小型鋼質工具,通常再配上金剛砂紙,可以將任何多余的線條和劃痕磨平(去除)。

    Solstice - 至日

    Date of the longest day and the shortest day of the year. There are two solstices per year, corresponding to the start of the summer and to that of the winter.一年中最長的一天和最短的一天。一年有兩個至日,分別對應夏天和冬天的開始。

    Split seconds chronograph - 追針計時、雙秒針分段計時

    An additional complication within a chronograph. A split seconds chronograph features an additional seconds hand that is superimposed on the chronograph hand. It enables measurement of a lap or split time, without stopping the measurement in progress. This process can be repeated several times in a row. After displaying the split time, the additional seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand.計時腕表的一項附加復雜功能,其特點是在計時腕表的指針上額外增加一個秒針。它可以連續多次測量分段時間,而無需中斷進行中的計時。顯示分段時間后,附加秒針將會趕上計時腕表的指針。

    Spring - 彈簧

    A steel blade that pulls a lever to its point of departure.將扳手拉到其出發點的鋼制葉片。

    Spring bar - 生耳

    A thin metal rod fixed between the horns/lugs (or attachments) of the case by means of two small holes on the side, for attaching the leather strap or metal bracelet. On Patek Philippe watches, the spring bars are in gold when the cases are in gold, since they wear out less when gold rubs against gold than when steel rubs against gold. This also diminishes the risk of the spring bar and case working loose and causing the strap/bracelet to drop off.借助于表殼邊上的兩個小孔固定在表耳(或凸耳)之間的細金屬棒,用來固定皮革表帶或金屬表鏈。如果百達翡麗表的表殼是黃金的,那么其生耳也是黃金的,因為黃金與黃金之間的磨損少于其它金屬與黃金的磨損,同時也減少因生耳與表殼分離而導致的表帶/表鏈脫落。

    SQU - 鏤空

    Abbreviation for "Skeleton" in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Skeleton - 鏤空”的縮寫。

    Skeleton - 鏤空機芯

    Refers to a movement that is open worked and engraved by hand.指敞開運作并以手工雕刻的機芯。

    Star wheel - 星輪

    Type of wheel with large triangular teeth, periodically locked by a jumper-spring. Its shape resembles that of a star.一種帶有大三角形齒的齒輪,被定位桿簧周期性鎖定,其形狀象星星。

    Steel - 鋼

    • The term "steel parts" encompasses all steel parts of the movement. This is always hardened steel.
    • Stainless steel: steel used for watch exteriors. It is a material that is hard to work with, particularly to set with gems.
    • “鋼部件”一詞包括機芯的所有鋼制部件,一般為硬化鋼。
    • 不銹鋼:用于鐘表外部組件的鋼材,是難以處理的材料,在鑲嵌寶石時尤為顯著。

    Stem - 柄軸

    Metal cylindrical movement part.

    • Winding stem: it ensures the winding of a mechanical manually wound movement. Operated by the crown, it successively drives the winding pinion placed at its end, then the crown wheel, and finally the escape wheel.
    • Split stem: winding stem for watches with a monobloc case. The movement is inserted into the case with a short part of the winding stem ("plug" part). The second part of the stem ("socket" part) is thus inserted through the side of the case thanks to the tube.
    • 柱狀金屬機芯部件。
    • 龍心/上弦柄軸:確保機器手動上弦機芯的上弦裝置。通過表冠操作,依次驅動裝置于其末端的上弦小齒輪、表冠齒輪以及擒縱輪。
    • 拼合柄軸:連體表殼腕表的上弦柄軸。機芯嵌入表殼內,帶有上弦柄軸的一個短部份(“插頭”),柄軸的另一部分(“插座”)以管件形式從表殼側邊嵌入。

    Stepping motor - 步進馬達

    Battery-driven motor which distributes the energy in a quartz movement. It plays the same role as the escapement in a mechanical movement.在石英機芯中分配動力并以電池驅動的馬達,其功能就如機械機芯的擒縱機構。

    Straight graining——直線粒紋

    利用一種類似磨砂鉛筆的工具,沿著部件的方形切面進行平行摩擦,金屬表面會留下密集而柔和的啞面紋理。

    Striking mechanism - 打擊機構、報時裝置

    A complication which strikes or chimes (on request by operating a slide piece, or automatically). There are several types of striking mechanism. Patek Philippe produces the following types:

    • Minute repeaters: they strike the hours, quarters and minutes, exclusively on request.
    • Petites Sonneries: they automatically strike the full hours, and the quarters (without the hours) in passing the quarters. They also incorporate the minute repeater function.
    • Grandes Sonneries: they automatically strike the full hours, and also the hours and quarters when passing the quarters. They also incorporate the minute repeater function.
    • The Westminster chime housed in the Star Caliber 2000: this is the most complicated of all striking mechanisms. It faithfully reproduces the famous Westminster chime. It automatically strikes the quarters, by adding them up. At each full hour, it strikes first the four quarter-hours and then the hours.
    • 一種可以報時或打點的復雜功能(通過打簧滑動桿或自動操作)。打擊裝置分為幾種類型,百達翡麗生產以下幾種:
    • 三問(表):可以按要求報出時、刻、分。
    • 小報時:自動正點及按過去的刻鐘(不包括報上小時數目)報時。亦結合三問報時功能。
    • 大報時:自動正點報時,以及按過去的小時及刻鐘報時。亦結合三問報時功能。
    • Star Caliber 2000懷表的西敏寺鐘聲報時:這是最復雜的報時機構,能真實地再現著名的西敏寺鐘聲。以累積的方式報上刻鐘。在每個整點,它先報四個刻鐘,再報正點。

    Strap - 表帶

    Strip/band of leather (or other non-metal material) that holds the watch to the wrist.將腕表固定在手腕上的皮革(或其它非金屬材料)帶子。

    Stud - 拴銷

    Small cylinder driven or screwed in, serving as a support for a part to turn freely.推入或擰入的小柱體,作為其它部件自由旋轉的支點。

    Satin brushing——鍛面磨砂拋光

    拋光工藝之一,用涂有細金剛磨砂膏的打磨頭對金屬表面進行“磨平”或磨光,產生一種帶精細紋理的啞光效果。

    Sinking the holes——鑿槽

    在先前由機器鉆出的小孔上挖出的凹面倒角或內彎邊緣——又稱凹槽。然后將凹槽高度拋光。倒角槽不僅能讓螺絲更加容易裝配,亦令嵌入小孔的寶石更加閃耀。

    Sinking the wheels——齒輪鑿槽

    過去,由于潤滑油流動不太穩定,開挖齒輪槽是為了讓潤滑油盡可能聚集在中軸。今天,這道工序僅是為了美觀。不同齒輪都會有一個拋光挖槽,即一個凹面倒角或略微凹陷的空槽。該工序使用一臺裝有鉆石切割工具的機鏤車床完成,操作時將鉆石刀具小心調低,分毫不差地在部件上方固定好。

    Sunburst——日輝紋

    一種用于表盤的加工工藝,用毛刷和研磨膏在金屬表面創造出從中央向邊緣擴散的紋理光澤。

    T

    Timekeeping - 計時

    Measuring elapsed time by means of a chronograph.用計時腕表測量占用的時間。

    Time zones - 時區

    Simultaneous indication of the time in several time zones. The most common models are dual time zone watches which give home time and local time in the place one is travelling to. Patek Philippe also produces a model called "World Time", which simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones.同時顯示幾個時區的時間。最普遍的型號就是兩地時區表,可同時顯示原居地及當地時間。百達翡麗還生產一種名叫“世界時間”的型號,可同時顯示24個時區的時間。

    Threading - 車螺紋

    Cutting a screw-thread on a rod or in a hole.在棒桿上或空穴內刻上螺紋。

    TO - 陀飛輪

    Abbreviation for "Tourbillon", in the Patek Philippe typology.在百達翡麗而言是“Tourbillon - 陀飛輪”的縮寫。

    Top Wesselton - 頂級Wesselton鉆石

    Refers to diamonds of F (Rare white+) or G (Rare white) colour.F級(極白+)或G級(極白)顏色的鉆石。

    Tourbillon - 陀飛輪

    A device invented in 1801 by A.-L. Breguet, eliminates variations in rate due to gravity, in vertical positions. The tourbillon comprises a mobile carriage carrying the escapement and balance and spring assembly components. Crafting it represents an impressive technical accomplishment. At Patek Philippe, 69 tiny parts are housed inside a space with a diameter of around 10 millimetres, and which together weigh just 0.3 grams.由寶璣(A.-L. Breguet)于 1801 年發明的一種裝置,能消除因垂直重力造成的速率偏差。陀飛輪包括一個載有擒縱機構、擺輪游絲裝置的活動托架。陀飛輪的制作體現精湛的工藝。在百達翡麗鐘表中,陀飛輪由69個小零件組成,直徑約10毫米,總重量不過0.3克。

    Trimming——修邊

    除去機芯主板或夾板上因機械處理留下的任何粗糙痕跡和碎屑,通常會使用帶細矛頭的刮刀。

    Tropical - Tropical表帶

    Refers to a bracelet in a composite material from the Aquanaut sports collection by Patek Philippe. Virtually indestructible even in a natural salt water or extremely cold environment, it is remarkably resistant to traction and to ultra-violet rays.指百達翡麗Aquanaut系列運動表中以合成材料制成的表帶。即使在鹽水中或極寒冷的環境下也不會損壞,對抗牽引力和紫外線的性能同樣出色。

    Turning - 車削

    Fashioning with a lathe, whether hand-operated or engine-driven.使用車床(不論是手工操作或是機器驅動)進行精加工。

    Tweezers - 鑷子

    Fine pincers used to pick up small objects (always used in plural form).用來夾起小對象的小鉗子(英文通常使用復數形式表示)。

    Twenty~4®系列

    Representing a contemporary interpretation of the Gondolo ladies' model, this collection inspired by the Art Deco movement is based on a double-shafted cambered case (4824). Twenty~4® watches lovingly caress the lines of the wrist by adopting a seductively curved silhouette, extended by a broad, yet extremely thin bracelet. They are available in two sizes (medium and small), three materials (steel, white or rose gold) , in jewelled watch and Haute Joaillerie versions.該系列是對Gondolo系列女裝表的現代演繹,取材于藝術裝飾運動,以雙井干略拱的表殼(編號4828)為基礎。Twenty~4®系列表采用優美的弧形表殼,并用寬而薄的表鏈加以延伸,與手腕的線條極為吻合。該系列有兩個型號(中號和小號)、三種材質(不銹鋼、白金或玫瑰金),分為珠寶鑲嵌和高級珠寶兩個小系列。

    U

    Unbalance - 失衡

    Disequilibrium of a rotating part.旋轉部件的不均衡。

    V

    Variation in rate - 速率偏差

    When referring to watches, means the gain or loss each day. This is particularly noticeable in a mechanical watch, and virtually nil in a quartz watch. It must fall within strict tolerance thresholds in order for the movement to be granted chronometer certification.就腕表而言,系指時間誤差。機械表中會出現這種情況,但石英表不會出現這樣的情況。機芯若想通過精密定時器認證,就必須符合嚴格的容差限值。

    Vibration - 振動

    In a mechanical watch, the movement of the balance and spring assembly in one direction, forwards and backwards. In a quartz watch, the simple vibration of the quartz. A vibration is equivalent to a half-oscillation.在機械表中,擺輪游絲裝置向同意方向來回擺動。在石英表中,由石英產生簡單振動。一個振動相當于半個擺動。

    Velvet finishing——起絨處理

    常用于表盤的裝飾工藝,利用兩種噴砂處理形成,首先用碎石和水進行激烈的噴砂處理,直到獲得磨砂表面;接著用韃靼膏做研磨材料,帶來奶油色的柔和絨面效果。

    Vertical satin brushing——垂直緞面磨砂

    使用銅毛刷和研磨膏來操作的一項表盤裝飾工藝,操作時必須小心地將刷子下拉。

    W

    Watch - (鐘|腕|懷)表

    Case fitted with a watch movement which shows the time and various additional indications with varying degrees of complexity. Patek Philippe produces wristwatches and pocket watches.由機芯和表殼組成的裝置,用以顯示時間和各種復雜程度不同的附加功能。百達翡麗出產腕表和懷表。

    Westminster - 西敏寺鐘聲

    See "Striking mechanism".參見“ Striking mechanism - 報時機構、報時裝置”的解釋。

    Wheel - 齒輪

    Circular movement part (wheel top + pinion) that spins around an axis and transmits force or energy. At Patek Philippe, the wheels are chamfered, circular satin finished, sunk and gilded. Their teeth are polished by hand on a wooden grinding-wheel coated with abrasive paste.圍繞軸心旋轉及傳送動力或能量的環形機芯部件(輪板+小齒輪)。在百達翡麗,齒輪是給倒角,旋轉式打圈磨光處理及經過鍍金。這些齒輪的齒片均用涂有一層研磨膏的木質砂輪進行手工拋光。

    Wheel plate - 輪板

    Movement part which, together with a pinion, forms a wheel.機芯的一個部件,和小齒輪一起構成齒輪。

    Winding - 上弦

    Winding the spring of a mechanical watch. This winding may be done manually or automatically by wrist movements.擰緊機械手表的發條。上弦可以是手動上弦,也可以靠手腕的運動自動上弦。

    Winding mechanism - 上弦機構、上弦裝置

    Part of a mechanical watch, designed for winding:

    • The winding mechanism of manually wound movements is operated by the crown. The system was developed by Jean-Adrien Philippe in 1842 to replace the key, placed on the back of watch cases.
    • The winding mechanism of self-winding watches is driven by the rotor thanks to wrist movements.
    • 機械鐘表的一個部件,為上弦而設計的:
    • 手動上弦機芯的上弦機構是通過表冠操作的。這套系統是Jean-Adrien Philippe于1842年開發出來的,用于取代位于表殼底蓋的上弦鑰匙。
    • 自上弦機芯的上弦機構是靠手腕的運動帶動自動盤運轉的。

    Wristwatch - 腕表

    Watch intended to be worn on the wrist. Patek Philippe produces mechanical and quartz wristwatches.戴在手腕上的手表。 百達翡麗生產機械與石英腕表。

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